Day 9: Fontana Dam to Mollies Shelter

With fresh legs, we start back on the trail. We staredt at Fontana Dam, the highest dam in the Eastern United States. It was pretty foggy and misty but the temperature was just great!

Fontana Dam

AKSherpa crossing the Dam 

We knew we had a long day of climbing ahead of us so we really appreciated the flat road for as long as we could! We were entering the Smokies today so we were pretty excited for that. As soon as we dropped our permits, we started our climb.

Entering the park!

We have 8 days to do this section. 

After an hour or so, we stopped for breakfast and got back after it. We have found that we have more of an appetite after a bit of hiking then first thing after getting up.

Back at it, upwards we climb. While stopped at a stream for water, So It Goes shows up. We did not expect to see him again!! He had got caught in a massive thunder and lightning storm the night before apparently and ended up backtracking in Fontana. He was not too happy!! We were tho since we knew we be traveling with him for the next few days.

Possible rain shelter!!

Up, up, up we climbed. Finally got to Shuckstack tower. Such amazing views of the Smokies!! So tall!! Clouds were starting to form and grow darker so we got on the road and hustled it to Mollies Shelter. We were NOT going to get caught in another rain storm again!!

So high up!!

We got to the shelter to find about 15 other people there. Was quite the party!  We set our tent up and settled in for the evening. Nice to be around a few more people due to all the bears in the area. Lots of sign of the bears but no sightings so far!!

Random thought:  How many gallons do you think we have sweated so far?? 3? 4?  The humidity is unreal down here!!

Day 8 - Creekside Paradise to The Hike Inn

Creekside Paradise

Since we got caught in the storm yesterday, my boots were soaked, and my feet fried AKsherpa found us a great Hiker B&B to stay in, the Creekside Paradise.  Jeff and Cynthia are great host and have everything you would need to have a relaxing Zero Day.

Creek on Property

AKsherpa and I charged our phones, updated our blog, showered, enjoyed being spoiled by the owners. Breakfast was amazing with breads, fruit, lox, coffee/tea, and cereals.  Jeff, the owner, also told us about a great weather site for the trail, AT Weather. You can check on our weather.  I know we will be and staying ahead and out of the storms.

Breakfast - yogurt, lox, fruit, bagels, bread, cereals, and more

To help my feet recover I took an Epsom Salted bath which was incredible.  It dried out my blisters an helped heal the new skin underneath.  They are on the mend.  When we were at the NOC I had toe caps overnighted to The Hike Inn to help perserve my toes and fix the problem.  I am excited to open my package and get back on the trial.

I am really enjoying our Zero Day and relaxing but I am itching to hit the trail.  I know AKsherpa is ready because she went for a short hike today to go pick blueberries near the B&B.   I now understand the vortex and time warp that hikers get sucked into with Zero Days. I can see how zeros could be a slippery slope and turn into much longer than just a day :-)

Miles - 0
Random Thought - FitBit after a 14.3 mile day

Day 7: Sassafrass Shelter to Yellow Creek Gap

OMG!!!!  Such a long, long night!!  Between the mice playing the mariachi above and behind our heads to So It Goes loudest sleeping pad in the world, we got almost no sleep last night.  We decided that once the bird alarm sounds, we are outta here!!!  So It Goes had the same idea.  We parted ways, sure to not run into him again, and Gasp!!! started up a hill!!  We got to the top and sat down to our favorite breakfast of strawberry oatmeal.  So good!!

Miles to go

Breakfast spot

 Steady hill rolls for the rest of the morning and then we stopped at Steoyah Gap for lunch.  I was feeling pretty great about my new boots that I dropped my old faithfuls in the bin.  I was a bit sad, but so glad I didn't have all the extra weight!!

Sad to see them go!

After lunch with Little Bear and the rest of the boy scouts, we headed up a brutal 5000' climb.  Apparently it was called Jacob's Ladder.  Straight up is what is was!! Wow!!  It was the hardest hill of the trip so far and it was awful!!!

Break time!

Thankfully, Brown Fork Shelter was just over the top and had water and a place to sit and recover.  Once Tootsie was there and rested up, the Boy scouts showed up along with Michka (whom spent the night on the top section of Sassafrass with all the mice!!)  They all said they were calling it a day and Tootsie and I decide to push on.  Not the best of choices due to the fact that thunderstorms have been happening every afternoon. But the skies looked good, it was early and we thought we could push the next 6 miles to the Cable Gap Shelter.  WRONG!!!!!!  About half hour in it started to sputter.  So we put our pack covers on.  Then, it started to RAIN.  I mean really rain.  I was ahead of Tootsie and stopped to put on my rain coat.

It only got worse from here

 I stood there waiting for her under the trees, completely soaked from head to toe.  Thunder and lightning were right on top of us and the trail had turned into a river.  Once she caught up, we decided we had to get to Fontana that night due to our boots being completely soaked and her feet issues.

Fontana

So we found a gap and parking lot and called up a local lodger,    Creekside Paradise.  Jeff and Cynthia are the owners and are amazing.  The home and property are awesome.  We got some food, showered and are now drying out.  Lets hope for healing feet and dryer weather!!!!!

Music (mental) play list: Van Halen Dead or Alive and The Bee Gees Jive Talking (only I changed it to ridge walking because that's what I was doing at the time)

Dsy 6 - NOC to Sasafrass

After a restful day at the NOC, great food, and lighting our load we were ready to set off towards the Smokeys.  AKsherpa and I were getting excited about getting to Fontana Dam which is 2-3 days out and walking across the one of the highest dam in the Eastern United States. Right out of the gate from the NOC we had a hill climb up to the Sasafrass Shelter, of course.  It is a 2602 elevation gain over 6.6 miles.  Going from 1600 ft up to just over 4000 ft. After spending sometime together on the trail AKsherpa took off and heading down the trail.

When we were at the NOC we decided that we would try hiking a couple hours everyday then have breakfast. In the mornings when we first got going our appetites were not big enough to eat our entire breakfast and we didn't like wasting it.  After a couple of hours AKsherpa had found a great place to stop and get water.  We took a break and had a breakfast.  Fueled for the rest of the day AKsherpa told me the miles left and I gave her my estimated time of arrival and we where off.

I plodded along thinking of other trail names for myself.  "I'm slow" was one and "Plod" was another. Passed a lot of people and was passed by a lot of people but I kept plodding along.  One of the people that had passed me in the morning was heading back down the hill and stopped to chat with me.  He was a teacher too and was doing a section he had skipped over last summer.  I asked how far ahead Sasafrass was, and he told me about 3/4 quarters of a mile.  I was so estatic to be close to a stop and be able to take my boots off that I practically ran to the shelter and made it in half hour earlier than I had estimated!

Sasafrass is in a gap therefore it is a bit dark and it was a dirty shelter with mice running around.  AKsherpa and I were glad this was going to be just our lunch stop and we where moving along.  As we were eating another hiker showed up, Aaron form New York City, and said that a storm was a comin'.  We said well we think we will be heading out but before we could get our gear gathered and on the skys opened up.  We thought well it will die down in a bit we will give it till 5p.

As we were having this discussion another hiking came running in soak to the bone.  He had run the last mile to get out of the storm.  Since living in Alaska I haven't heard thunder in a while.  It was loud and threatening.  Luckily we were under cover, dry and safe. As we were debating whether to continue on or not another hiker ran in. He was Eagle Scout with a group and was the first one in. The shelter was going to quickly filling up.  We were a bit nervous but decided to stay where we were since it was dry and safe.

We set up our tent inside the shelter to avoid the wet and to avoid mice running over us all night.  It was a restless night but we made it through and hit the trail in the morning.

Miles for the Day - 6.6
Randon thoughts and songs - How many catepillars are killed by AT hikers each year on the trail, New trail names for myself, Spoon full of Sugar from Mary Poppins looped through my mind.

Day 5: Wesser Bald Shelter to Nantahala Outdoor Center (NOC)

Spirits were high as we woke to our alarm clock.  Such a beautiful morning, and not because we were headed to town!!  Started our breakfast and in walks Burning Calves.  Ate breakfast with her, us with our oatmeal and her with chips, gummy worms, and a protein bar.  We just don't get it.

Burning Calves

Anyway, off down the trail we go.  Yes, I said DOWN!!!  We got to descend all the hard earned up miles but town was worth it!!  On the way, I saw a turtle.  Was not what I was expecting!!  Bad break for Tootsie, tho, as she only stepped on a snake!! Yuck!

Shocked to see him

Cool AT Log

Once we finally hit pavement, we headed to check in.  We stepped in the General Store to full AC!! Felt amazing!!  We got our keys for a bunk house and some supplies and we went in search of our room.  Was a bit mean we thought that we had to walk another 1/ 4 mile and uphill but we would do anything for a shower and clean clothes at that point.

During our walk up hill, I noticed a slapping noise behind me.  I looked back, nothing.  It continued.  Huh, I thought.  What was that?  I looked at my boot and noticed it totally separated from my sole.  Both boots from heel to toe were blown out!!  I was not happy.  But, at least this little town had a small outfitter and I was able to get a replacement boot. Although not as sturdy as my other boots, these new ones should do.  I was a little worried about breaking in a new boot on the trail but what choice did I have?  I did decide to bring my old boot with me to the next town, just in case!!

Frustrating!!

We got some town food!!!  And I got some much deserved (and needed!!) wine.

Southern Hummus Plate

 We also did our laundry and picked up our resupply box Tootsie had mailed 3 weeks back.  So glad to see it made it.  Back up the hill to repack all of our stuff and to decide what needed to be taken out.  We had so much unneeded and unused crap!!!!! 15 pounds to be exact!!  Felt so good to be so much lighter!

Resupply

So excited it made it!!

So much crap!!

After we went and shipped our haul home, we just sat and relaxed a bit and watched all the activities on the water.  The NOC is an amazing place for water sports, zip lining, hiking and biking.  So grateful for such a nice rest spot!! We needed the rest too since poor Tootsies feet were feeling the strain of the trail!!

Poor Tootsie!!

We had dinner and off to bed we went. I think we both missed our trail life a little at this point!!

My (mental) play list:  Photograph by Def Leopard and Cant Stop the Feeling by Justin Timberlake

Day 4 - Wayah Shelter to Wesser Shelter

After spending the night getting to know Lush around the firepit.  AKsherpa and I packed up camp and once again headed down the trail.  We knew that at some point in the day that we had a hill climb.  Which seems like everyday really.  After doing this I think that I am ready to do any trail in the Anchorage bowl or the valley.  I feel like everyday I'm either climbing Bird Ridge, Pioneer Peak, or Mt. Marathon.

When AKsherpa and I were planning the trip we looked at the elevation changes versus miles and thought no problem but we didn't take into account the evelation itself.  Silly Girls  :-)

After a great lunch at Cold Springs which was beef and broccoli, YUMMY, we started our desent to the parking lot at bottom of Wesser Tower. At the bottom of the hill we took a quick break chatted with Lush.  Who I have affectionately renamed Napolaeon Dynamit (twin - glasses and all) took off to conquer the big hill climb for the afternoon. I was feeling great after our lunch had lots of energy and was ready for the ascent up to the Wesser Tower.

The climb to Wesser Tower is 1.8 miles long with and elevation gain of 1359 ft. Starting just below 4,000 ft and ending just over 4,500 ft.  Doesn't sound too bad, right?! About half way up the hill I was passed by a mountain runner making what appeared to be easy progress up the mountain.  It was a bit fustrating, but I had to keep in mind he was not carrying a pack on his back and he was most likely used to elevation.  In the end I made it to the top and it was a great view.  I was proud of myself for doing it.  Of course, AKsherpa was at the top waiting for me because she is an animal and puts her head down and doesn't let up.  I love it because her drive pulls me up the mountain as well.

Once at the top and after taking a short rest we headed down to the shelter to camp for the night.  On our way to our campsite we passed a water source but thought there was one at the shelter so we carried on.  We thought wrong.  AKsherpa was a trooper and dredged back up the hill and got us water while I set up camp.

Wesser Shelter and Camp Sites

We enjoyed Chicken and Herb for dinner.  It was a great meal to finish the day and then it was to the tent to escape the bugs and plan our next day.  To make it to the NOC to enjoy a shower and a meal fixed by someone else than us.

Miles for the Day 10.6
Random thoughts: I don't like Mt. Runners, Can't we ever just traverse?, I'm doing it!

Day 3: Winding Stair Gap to Wayah Bald Shelter

Woke up to the sound of the birds again. Really beginning to enjoy that alarm clock!!  We had a great breakfast of eggs and beef and we hit the trail!  We got to play frogger today as the trail crosses over Highway 64.  A fun way to start the day!

Tootsie playing frogger

Highway 64

 We knew we had lots of hills to look forward to today and they were not wrong.  Siler Bald was first on the list.  It was a steep hike and then to get to the lookout it was a straight up climb for 1/ 4 of a mile.  Brutal!!!  But the views were worth it.  Some local guys were up there and asked where we were headed.  They pointed out the tallest peak and said, there it is!!  Cripes, it was going to be a long day!

Siler Bald

 We climbed down the hill and found a picnic bench where we gladly took our lunch break.  Up the trail came two hikers, and one was Burning Calves!  Nice to see a friendly face.  We planned to meet up at Nantahala Outdoor Center in a few days as well.

Filtering water

Onward we pushed up the steep mountain towards Wayah Bald.  An amazing 360 view of the Southern Appalachian Mountains.  At this point our tanks were empty, our legs were shot, our feet hurt.  We were done for the day.  Thankfully, there was a shelter with some camping sites a mile away.  Home was not too far off!!

We set up camp and started our dinner when hiker Lush showed up. A super nice guy, just out of college.  He had hiked a lot so we picked his brain.  We built a fire and stayed up late (for us old timers!!)  We are starting to learn that our way of eating is very different from most of the long term hikers.  Most seem to survive on candy and chips.  Not sure how they do that!!

Random (mental) play list today:  Beauty and the Beast and I would walk 500 miles.  This song led me down the rabbit hole of no way would anyone walk 500 miles in the heat and rain with 40 pounds just to come to your door.  No way.  (I was half delirious at this point!!)

Day 2 - Mile 11 to Winding Stairs Gap

***Pictures to be inserted in Fontana***

Everything in North Carolina seems to have a gap in its name. At least on the AT it does. We started the day at a great campsite just big enough for the two of us and watched the sun rise over the mountain while we enjoyed blueberry oatmeal and blueberry tea. It was a blueberry day, apparently. 

Packed up and headed down the trail. Nice rolling hills and enjoyed the hiking. Stopped at a beautiful spring, ate lunch on the side of the trail and filtered water. Once we were fueled it was back to putting miles behind us. By the time we got to Rock Gap I decided I needed a break from my boots and to tape up my toes. I has a couple hot spots that needed addressing. Tootsie strikes again. Upon inspection I had a couple noticible  blisters forming on my pinky toes. Got them wrapped and we were on our way.

By the time we made it the the bottom of Winding Stair Gap Alaska Sherpa and I were done. (I have officially renamed Alaska to AKsherpa. She took some weight for me and hence the name).  After a 13.3 day do you blame us? We set up camp AKsherpa hiked back up the  hill (to fetch a pail of water) .2 of a mile to make sure we had water the evening and the next day. She gets the best hiking partner ever award!! We ate our dinner and then snuggled into our sleeping bags. Talking about all the things that we were going to chuck (I mean ship back home) once we got to the NOC.

Then 4am rolled around and my bladder decided it was time to be emptied. I relucntly left the safety of the tent to do said relieving and then snuggled back into the tent. Then my mind started to play tricks on me. Every sound I heard was a animal out to get me and AKsherpa. At this point thoughts running through my mind are, "why didn't we bring bear spray or a gun, can I run a bear off with trekking poles, does the smell blocking bags for our food I bought really block smell" and the list goes on. Meanwhile unbeknownst to me AKsherpa is worried about the vehicles she keeps hearing from the nearby road with crazy thoughts of her own, "that driver is going to come up here and rape us then kill us." The cars were a soothing thought to me and obvisiously not AKsherpa.  I was so relieved when I heard birds start their morning chirping around 5:30am.

As we packed up camp and got ready for our day we shared the thoughts that raced through the night and decided that we would not be staying nearing a road anymore. We were leaving WInding stair Gap to make our way to Wayah Bald.

Day 1: Deep Gap to mile 11

Disclaimer!!!! Photos are super hard to download so when service Is better we will post more!:)

Day one started off to an easy start. Had a great breakfast at the hotel and got a ride with Cody to Deep Gap.

Cody and Tootsie at Deep Gap

Sweet ride!

Our chariot

The Deva!

We drove long into the woods before Cody stopped and we got out. We had a steady climb the first few miles with a dense canopy. Weather was cool and mostly cloudy, perfect hiking weather!

Our first blaze!

Rhododendrons galore on the trail 

We climbed to 5500 feet before a gradual decent back down. We met a few other hikers and we had the usual trail chit chat of where are you going, where are you headed to and the weather.

Tootsie

Some pretty fungi on the trail

Our buddy with his home on his back

AKSherpa

We stopped for lunch of beef couscous and we met Burning Calves. She is from Germany and is so helpful to us with her trail knowledge!  Anyway, she chatted with us for a few minutes and off she went. We finished our lunch and started on the trail again. It was mostly the same for most of the day until we finally came to a clearing and got to see the beautiful view. So many trees and rolling hills!

After that we found our self a nice little campsite where we set up camp, ate, and went to sleep!! A great first day!!!

Random thoughts and songs of the day:  Wow, its hot. And humid. And high altitude. Wow. What are we doing?!?  How much is this pack? Your Love (The Outfield) just the chorus mostly.